Program of Daily Sessions and Events

Program of Daily Sessions and Events

(last update November 15, 2016)

The conference is entirely in English

Wednesday, November 16th (Venue: Palazzo Coppini)

16:00 – 18:00 
Opening of registration desk for pre–registration

Welcoming Reception and viewing of the exhibitions:

  • Restraint and Excess – Student Responses
  • Unveiled Emotions, Cultures Revealed

Thursday, November 17th (Venue: Auditorium al Duomo)

8.00 – Opening of Secretariat Desk and Speaker Technical Support


9:00 Welcome to Costume Colloquium
Carlotta Del Bianco
– Vice–President, Fondazione Romualdo Del Bianco® – Life Beyond Tourism®
& Mary Westerman Bulgarella – Costume Colloquium Advisory Committee Coordinator

Session I  (9:10-10:40)
Breathe In, Breathe Out
Corsets and crinolines epitomize fashion at its most restraining and excessive, but can restriction be liberating and does deregulation ever lead to freedom?

  • Birgitta Berglund (Senior Lecturer) Lund University, Sweden – The Great Corset Debate
  • Veronica Casado Hernandez (MFA Candidate) The School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Spain – Transgression through Restraint: Crinolines and a Space of One’s Own in Victorian Britain 1840-1870
  • Emilia Muller (PhD Candidate) Universidad Católica de Chile – “Down with the Crinoline ”: Fashion and Modernity in 19th Century Chile
  • Kimberly Wahl (Associate Professor) Ryerson University, Canada – The Excess/Restraint Dyad in Mainstream and Alternative Dress 1880-1915


10.40–11.10Coffee break

Session II (11:10-12:20)
Acting Up, Dressing Up
We all construct different identities through the fashion choices we make, but are these performances merely superficial or does what we wear express deeper desires and anxieties that transcend our love of fancy dress?

  • Sally Grant (Senior Lecturer of Fashion & Textiles) Bath Spa University, UK – Cutting for Freedom: an Analysis of Glam Fashions’ Use of Hollywood Nostalgia in its Cut & Construction of Fashionable Dress with Particular References to the Designs of Anthony Price
  • Juliano Felizardo (Professor of History of Fashion & Costume) & Ramayana Sousa (Professor of Literary & Film Studies) Universidade do Sul de Santa Catarina, Brazil – Fashion and Queer Subversion: for a Political Use of Excess
  • Maria Claudia Bonadio (Associate Professor of Art & Design) Federal University of Juiz de Fora, Brazil – The Couturier’s Clothes: Tradition, Exuberance and Gender Boundaries
  • Presentation of book Colors in Fashion” by Jonathan Faiers & Mary Westerman Bulgarella
  • Announcement of “Colloquium for Bloggers” contest winners


12:20–12:30 Presentation of book “Colors in Fashion” by Jonathan Faiers & Mary Westerman Bulgarella

12:30-12:40Announcement of “Colloquium for Bloggers” contest winners

12:40–14:00 – Break


Session III (14:00-15:30)
Too Much Too Little
The desire for less and the pursuit of simplicity, has ironically, often been too much for society. Minimalism is often regarded with suspicion and outrage when excess and more is the norm.

  • Hilary Davidson (Honorary Associate) University of Sidney, Australia – The Excesses of Minimalism: Vulgarity, Bulk &Extravagance in Regency Dress
  • Cynthia Cooper (Head of Collections & Research and Curator of Costume & Textiles) McCord Museum, Canada – When Too Little Became Too Much: Low Necklines, Imperialism and Resistance in Late 19th Century Canada
  • Sally Helvenston Gray (Associate Professor) Michigan State University, USA – The Mother Hubbard Gown: Restrictions on the Public Wearing of Private Attire in the 19th Century
  • Alexandra Palmer (Senior Curator of Fashion & Textiles) Royal Ontario Museum, Canada – Raymond Duncan: A Man of No Restraint


15:3016:00 – Coffee break

Session IV (16:00-17:10)
Shape Shifters
One of the chief functions of clothing is to modify and alter the shape of the body into an ideal form, but what of the transitional body, the developing body, and the architectural body? The presentations in this section will examine clothing as essentially spatial and changing.

  • Catriona Fisk (PhD Candidate) University of Technology Sydney, Australia – Sexual Restraint and Reproductive Excess: Dressing for Pregnancy 1750-1900
  • Deirdre Murphy (Senior Curator) Historic Royal Palaces, UK – Couture for Teenagers
  • Stamatina Kousidi (Academic Guest & Postdoctoral Research Fellow) Institute for the History & Theory of Architecture, Switzerland – Lumps, Puffs and Hoops. Perspectives on the Grotesque Dress in Space


17:1017:25 – Presentation of Museo Salvatore Ferragamo’s Exhibition “Tra Arte e Moda” (“Across Art and Fashion”) by Stefania Ricci – Director

18:0019:30Exclusive Visit and Reception Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, Palazzo Ferroni, Piazza Santa Trinita

–Friday, November 18th (Venue: Auditorium al Duomo)

8:00 Opening of Secretariat Desk and Speaker Technical Support


Session V (9:00-10:30)
Display is crucial to fashion. We all display our personal fashion choices of course, but how clothes are presented on the runway, in shop windows, in the atelier or in the museum is often how we experience clothes that we can only dream of wearing and as such these exhibitions are central to our understanding of fashion itself.

  • Lori Hall-Araujo (Assistant Professor & Curator) School of Design and Costume Museum Stephen College, USA – The Lady in the Tutti-Frutti Hat Behind Glass: Explaining Excess at the Carmen Miranda Museum
  • Gillion Carrara (Adjunct Professor in the Department of Art History, Theory & Criticism and Director of the Fashion Resource Center ) School of the Art Institute of Chicago, USA – Underpinnings: Artist Fraser Taylor, From Excess to Restraint
  • Emmanuelle Dirix (Principal Lecturer) Manchester Metropolitan University, UK – Hide and Seek: Restraint and Excess and the Politics of the “Designer Retrospective” Exhibitions


10:30–11:00 – Coffee break

Session VI (11:00-12:30)
Restricted Access
Excessive styles of dress have, since the beginning of time, demarcated sections of society and reinforced tradition. Wealth, power and dynastic continuity use dress at its most extreme and codified, accessing the few and excluding the masses.

  • Jose A. Ortiz (Specialist in Art History & Heritage Preservation) University of Barcelona, Spain – Dressing the Soul: Mourning Regulation and Excess in Spanish Culture
  • Elizabeth Semmelhack (Senior Curator) The Bata Shoe Museum, Canada – On Display: Chopines and the Proclamation of Wealth in Early Modern Spanish and Italian Dress
  • Sandra Heffernan (Senior Lecturer of Textile Design) Massey University, New Zealand – Luxurious Design during a Period of Restraint: Empress Zita’s Coronation Gown
  • Alisa Saisavetvaree (Curator), Nuchada Pianprasankit (Conservator), Melissa Leventon & Julia Brennan (Senior Consultants) Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, Thailand – Fit for a Queen: Excess and Restraint in a Royal Wardrobe


12:30–14:00 – Break


Session VII (14:00-15:10)
Nearer to God
Heavenly, divine and miraculous are terms often used to describe fashion and its devotees, but worshipping fashion has also been understood as ungodly and materialistic. This panel will investigate the relationship between sanctity and style.

  • Anna Vaughan Kett (Lecturer, School of Humanities) & Hannah Rumball (PhD Student in Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture) University of Brighton, UK – Negotiating Simplicity and Extravagance in 19th Century Quaker Dress: Restraint and Excess in the Clothing Worn by Eleanor Stephens Clark and Helen Bright Clark of Street
  • Faegheh Shirazi (Professor, Department of Middle Eastern Studies) University of Texas & Christina Lindholm (Associate Dean) Virginia Commonwealth University, USA – Brand Islam: Islamic Fashion
  • Holly Poe Durbin (Professor) University of California, USA – Bad to the Bone: Dressing the Gods and Monsters of Rock & Roll

15:10–15:40 – Coffee break

Session VIII (15:40-16:20)
Politically (In)Correct
Dress has always been the subject of regulation, acknowledging its ability to express dissent and opposition, to unify and separate. Religious, economic and ideological shifts in society are invariably revealed by how society conforms, or not, to dominant dress codes and restrictions.

  • Hadas Hirsch (Head Department of History and Land of Israel) Oranim Academic College of Education, Israel – The Construction of Personal Appearance of Mukhannathun (Hermaphrodites) in Medieval Muslim Jurisprudence
  • Sandra Skaro (Assistant in the Department of Textile & Clothing Design) & Ujevic Darko (Professor in the Faculty of Textile Technology), University of Zagreb, Croatia – “Orders against Luxury” and how they influenced 16th and 17th Century Fashion in the Dubrovnik Republic
  • Marina Blumin (Curator of the Department of the History of Russian Culture) State Hermitage Museum, Russia – The Ideological Restrictions in Soviet Fashion 1920-30


16:20–16:35 – Presentation of New York University Villa La Pietra (see page _­­__) by Claudia Beyer & Costanza PerroneTwenty-One Callots/One Woman: notes on conservation and display at Villa La Pietra

17:00–17:30 – Transfer to Villa La Pietra

17:3019:00 – Exclusive Visit and Reception – New York University Villa La Pietra, via Bolognese, 120

19:15 – Transfer to downtown Florence

 –Saturday, November 19th (Venue: Auditorium al Duomo)

8:00 – Opening of Secretariat Desk and Speaker Technical Support


Session IX (9:00-10:00)
“Clothes Maketh the Man?”
From the peacock to the sombre-suited businessman, male dress has always been a story of opposition; between discretion and ostentation, between cutting a dash and blending in, but is it always men who get to play this game of opposites?

  • Clarissa Esguerra (Assistant Curator of Costume & Textiles) Los Angeles County Museum, USA – The Zoot Suit: A Study on Sartorial Excess
  • Alison Matthews David (Associate Professor) & Ben Barry (Assistant Professor) School of Fashion, Ryerson University, Canada – Restraining Orders: Men’s Slim-fitting Suits as Sartorial Shackles
  • Michelle Finamore (Curator of Fashion) Museum of Fine Arts Boston, USA – Cut, Color, Revolution? : Brioni in Context

10:10–10:40 – Coffee break

Session X (10:40-12:10)
Showing Off (Individuals)
Clothing is a language, and whether that is the language of excess or minimalism, the fashion mavericks discussed in this session understood that clothing speaks volumes about both the designer and the consumer.

  • Cynthia Amnéus (Curator of Fashion &Textiles) Cincinnati Art Museum, USA – Elizabeth Hawes: Restrained Couturier, Radical Thinker
  • Beatrice Behlen (Senior Curator of Fashion & Decorative Arts) Museum of London, UK – ‘Conspicuously Adorned’: The Wardrobe of Diana Lady Delamere 1913-1987
  • Laurie Anne Brewer (Associate Curator of Costume & Textiles) Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design, USA – Golden Glamour: The Edith Stuyvesant Vanderbilt Gerry Collection
  • Lauren Whitley (Senior Curator of Fashion & Textiles) & Emily Stoehrer (Curator of Jewelry) Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, USA – Timeless Beauty: Halston-Peretti 1971-1978


12:10–12:25 – Introduction to the Museo del Novecento

12:25–14:00 – Break

14:00–15:15 – Visit Museo del Novecento, Piazza Santa Maria Novello, 10 (appointment at the museum entrance)


Session XI (15:30-17:00)
Gilding the Lily
Jewelry, perfume and hairstyles are understood to be the small but significant finishing touches to an outfit, the hallmarks of individual style. But are these details truly timeless and what happens when these accessories take the dominant role?

  • Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell (Social Media Manager) Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Museum, USA – Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow: Extreme Makeovers in Late 18th Century Hairstyles
  • Mairi MacKenzie (Research Fellow) Glasgow School of Art, UK – “You smell like a whore”: Pungent Scents, Questionable Character and the Rise of Power Perfumes in the 1980s
  • Laura Vegas (Researcher) Universidad De Valladolid, Teresa Viñes (Independent Researcher) & Leire Rubio (Illustrator), Spain – Main Jewelry Pieces in the Castilian Royal Chamber during the 15th Century
  •  Amy McHugh (Assistant Curator) Tiffany & , USA – A Broadway Belle: Archeological Revival Jewelry in 19th Century New York


17:00–17:15 – Presentation of Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella by Elizabetta Gucci –Responsible of Sales Staff Training Courses, Florence

17:15–17:30 – Presentation of Barberino McArthur Glen Designer Outlet by Simona Gazzaniga – Travel Marketing Manager of Italy

17:30-17:45 – Presentation of Scarperia and San Piero a Sieve by Francesco Bacci – Vice Mayor of the Municipality of Scarperia & San Piero


20:00–21:00 – Exclusive Visit Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella, Via della Scala, 16

 –Sunday, November 20th, 2015

Excursion to the Mugello Area and Farewell Reception

9:00 – Meeting at the Auditorium al Duomo

9:20 – Bus departure for Barberino

10:00 – Arrival at the Barberino McArthur Glen Designer Outlet

 10:00-12:00 – Free time for shopping and visiting the Barberino McArthur Glen Designer Outlet

 12:15 – Bus departure for Scarperia

 12:45 – Arrival at Scarperia

 13:00-14:00 – Buffet lunch in the Palazzo dei Vicari of Scarperia

14:00-16:00 – Visit to Palazzo dei Vicari, the Museum of Cutting Tools and a tool producing workshop

 16:30 – Bus departure for Florence

 17:00 – Arrival in Florence

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