Preliminary Program of Daily Sessions and Events

Preliminary Program of Daily Sessions and Events

Wednesday, November 16th (Venue: Palazzo Coppini)

Registration and welcoming reception

Thursday, November 17th (Venue: Auditorium al Duomo)

Session I: Showing Off (Individuals)

Clothing is a language, and whether that is the language of excess or minimalism, the fashion mavericks discussed in this session understood that clothing speaks volumes about both the designer and the consumer.

  • Cynthia Amnéus (Curator of Fashion &Textiles) Cincinnati Art Museum, USA – Elizabeth Hawes: Restrained Couturier, Radical Thinker
  • Beatrice Behlen (Senior Curator of Fashion & Decorative Arts) Museum of London, UK – ‘Conspicuously Adorned’: The Wardrobe of Diana Lady Delamere 1913-1987
  • Laurie Anne Brewer (Associate Curator of Costume & Textiles) Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design, USA – Golden Glamour: The Edith Stuyvesant Vanderbilt Gerry Collection
  • Lauren Whitley (Senior Curator of Fashion & Textiles) & Emily Stoehrer (Curator of Jewelry) Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, USA – Timeless Beauty: Halston-Peretti 1971-1978

 Session II: Nearer to God

Heavenly, divine and miraculous are terms often used to describe fashion and its devotees, but worshipping fashion has also been understood as ungodly and materialistic. This panel will investigate the relationship between sanctity and style.

  • Patrick Lonergan (Lecturer in Marketing) School of Art & Design, Nottingham Trent University, Maurice Patterson & Maria Lichrou (Lecturers in Marketing) Department of Management & Marketing, University of Limerick, UK – Constructing Hedonism: A Narrative Exploration of Fashion’s Spiritual Devotion to Excess and Restraint
  • Anna Vaughan Kett (Lecturer, School of Humanities) & Hannah Rumball (PhD Student in Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture) University of Brighton, UK – Negotiating Simplicity and Extravagance in 19th Century Quaker Dress: Restraint and Excess in the Clothing Worn by Eleonora Stephens Clark and Helen Bright Clark of Street
  • Faegheh Shirazi (Professor, Department of Middle Eastern Studies) University of Texas & Christina Lindholm (Associate Dean) Virginia Commonwealth University, USA – Brand Islam: Islamic Fashion
  • Holly Poe Durbin (Professor) University of California, USA – Bad to the Bone: Dressing the Gods and Monsters of Rock & Roll

 Session III: Breathe In, Breathe Out

Corsets and crinolines epitomize fashion at its most restraining and excessive, but can restriction be liberating and does deregulation ever lead to freedom?

  • Birgitta Berglund (Senior Lecturer) Lund University, Sweden – The Great Corset Debate
  • Veronica Casado Hernandez (MFA Candidate) The School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Spain – Transgression through Restraint: Crinolines and a Space of One’s Own in Victorian Britain 1840-1870
  • Emilia Muller (PhD Candidate) Universidad Católica de Chile – “Down with the Crinoline ”: Fashion and Modernity in 19th Century Chile
  • Kimberly Wahl (Associate Professor) Ryerson University, Canada – The Excess/Restraint Dyad in Mainstream and Alternative Dress 1880-1915

 Session IV: Shape Shifters

One of the chief functions of clothing is to modify and alter the shape of the body into an ideal form, but what of the transitional body, the developing body, and the architectural body? The presentations in this section will examine clothing as essentially spatial and changing.

  • Catriona Fisk (PhD Candidate) University of Technology Sydney, Australia – Sexual Restraint and Reproductive Excess: Dressing for Pregnancy 1750-1900
  • Deirdre Murphy (Senior Curator) Historic Royal Palaces, UK – Couture for Teenagers
  • Stamatina Kousidi (Academic Guest & Postdoctoral Research Fellow) Institute for the History & Theory of Architecture, Switzerland – Lumps, Puffs and Hoops. Perspectives on the Grotesque Dress in Space
  • Aurora Fiorentini (Scholar and Professor of Fashion and Applied Arts) Italy – Unforeseen Consequences: Contamination of Form and Matter between Contemporary Fashion and Architecture

Presentation of Museo Salvatore Ferragamo
Exclusive Visit and Reception – Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

–Friday, November 18th (Venue: Auditorium al Duomo)

Session V: Politically (In)Correct

Dress has always been the subject of regulation, acknowledging its ability to express dissent and opposition, to unify and separate. Religious, economic and ideological shifts in society are invariably revealed by how society conforms, or not, to dominant dress codes and restrictions.

  • Hadas Hirsch (Head Department of History and Land of Israel) Oranim Academic College of Education, Israel – The Construction of Personal Appearance of Mukhannathun (Hermaphrodites) in Medieval Muslim Jurisprudence
  • Sandra Skaro (Assistant in the Department of Textile & Clothing Design) & Ujevic Darko (Professor in the Faculty of Textile Technology), University of Zagreb, Croatia – “Orders against Luxury” and how they influenced 16th and 17th Century Fashion in the Dubrovnik Republic
  • Marina Blumin (Curator of the Department of the History of Russian Culture) State Hermitage Museum, Russia – The Ideological Restrictions in Soviet Fashion 1920-30
  • Chryssa Kapartziani (Lawyer and PhD Candidate in Sociology of Law) University of Athens & Myrsini Pichou (Curator) Athens University History Museum, Greece – Ties, Clothing and Legislation: the Impact of the Greek Crisis on Fashion

Session VI: Exhibitionism

Display is crucial to fashion. We all display our personal fashion choices of course, but how clothes are presented on the runway, in shop windows, in the atelier or in the museum is often how we experience clothes that we can only dream of wearing and as such these exhibitions are central to our understanding of fashion itself.

  • Lori Hall-Araujo (Independent Curator & Scholar) USA – The Lady in the Tutti-Frutti Hat Behind Glass: Explaining Excess at the Carmen Miranda Museum
  • June Alison Rowe (Associate Lecture & PhD Candidate) Central St. Martin’s University of the Arts, UK – Fashioning Silhouettes: The Display Mannequin and Fashionable Bodies 1947-1970
  • Gillion Carrara (Adjunct Professor in the Department of Art History, Theory & Criticism and Director of the Fashion Resource Center ) School of the Art Institute of Chicago, USA – Underpinnings: Artist Fraser Taylor, From Excess to Restraint
  • Emmanuelle Dirix (Lecturer &Theory Coordinator) Chelsea College of Arts and Antwerp Fashion Academy, Belgium – Hide and Seek: Restraint and Excess and the Politics of the “Designer Retrospective” Exhibitions

Session VII: Restricted Access

Excessive styles of dress have, since the beginning of time, demarcated sections of society and reinforced tradition. Wealth, power and dynastic continuity use dress at its most extreme and codified, accessing the few and excluding the masses.

  • Jose A. Ortiz (Specialist in Art History & Heritage Preservation) University of Barcelona, Spain – Dressing the Soul: Mourning Regulation and Excess in Spanish Culture
  • Elizabeth Semmelhack (Senior Curator) The Bata Shoe Museum, Canada – On Display: Chopines and the Proclamation of Wealth in Early Modern Spanish and Italian Dress
  • Sandra Heffernan (Senior Lecturer of Textile Design) Massey University, New Zealand – Luxurious Design during a Period of Restraint: Empress Zita’s Coronation Gown
  • Teekara Piyavara Natenoi (Museum Director), Piyamon Kingpratoommas (Senior Conservator), Melissa Leventon & Julia Brennan (Senior Consultants) Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, Thailand – Fit for a Queen: Excess and Restraint in a Royal Wardrobe

Session VIII: Acting Up, Dressing Up

We all construct different identities through the fashion choices we make, but are these performances merely superficial or does what we wear express deeper desires and anxieties that transcend our love of fancy dress?

  • Sally Grant (Senior Lecturer of Fashion & Textiles) Bath Spa University, UK – Cutting for Freedom: an Analysis of Glam Fashions’ Use of Hollywood Nostalgia in its Cut & Construction of Fashionable Dress with Particular References to the Designs of Anthony Price
  • Juliano Felizardo (Professor of History of Fashion & Costume) & Ramayana Sousa (Professor of Literary & Film Studies) Universidade do Sul de Santa Catarina, Brazil – Fashion and Queer Subversion: for a Political Use of Excess
  • Fiona Reilly (Head of Costume) National Institute of Dramatic Art, Australia – Masquerade, Fancy Dress and the Luxury of Adorning Oneself in Disguises
  • Maria Claudia Bonadio (Associate Professor of Art & Design) Federal University of Juiz de Fora, Brazil – The Couturier’s Clothes: Tradition, Exuberance and Gender Boundaries

Presentation of New York University Villa La Pietra
Exclusive Visit and Reception – New York University Villa La Pietra

 –Saturday, November 19th (Venue: Auditorium al Duomo)

Session IX: “Clothes Maketh the Man?”

From the peacock to the sombre-suited businessman, male dress has always been a story of opposition; between discretion and ostentation, between cutting a dash and blending in, but is it always men who get to play this game of opposites?

  • Cheryl Roberts (Senior Lecturer in Fashion History) Middlesex University at University of Brighton, UK – “Disrespectful Foreign Innovations”: Trouser Tensions in Britain in the Interwar Years
  • Clarissa Esguerra (Assistant Curator of Costume & Textiles) Los Angeles County Museum, USA – The Zoot Suit: A Study on Sartorial Excess
  • Alison Matthews David (Associate Professor) & Ben Barry (Assistant Professor) School of Fashion, Ryerson University, Canada – Restraining Orders: Men’s Slim-fitting Suits and Oversized Prison Uniforms as Sartorial Shackles
  • Michelle Finamore (Curator of Fashion) Museum of Fine Arts Boston, USA – Cut, Color, Revolution? : Brioni in Context

Session X: Too Much Too Little

The desire for less and the pursuit of simplicity, has ironically, often been too much for society. Minimalism is often regarded with suspicion and outrage when excess and more is the norm.

  • Hillary Davidson (Independent Scholar of Dress & Textiles) UK – The Excesses of Minimalism: Vulgarity, Bulk &Extravagance in Regency Dress
  • Cynthia Cooper (Head of Collections & Research and Curator of Costume & Textiles) McCord Museum, Canada – When Too Little Became Too Much: Low Necklines, Imperialism and Resistance in Late 19th Century Canada
  • Sally Helvenston Gray (Associate Professor) Michigan State University, USA – The Mother Hubbard Gown: Restrictions on the Public Wearing of Private Attire in the 19th Century
  • Alexandra Palmer (Senior Curator of Fashion & Textiles) Royal Ontario Museum, Canada – Raymond Duncan: A Man of No Restraint

Session XI: Gilding the Lily

Jewelry, perfume and hairstyles are understood to be the small but significant finishing touches to an outfit, the hallmarks of individual style. But are these details truly timeless and what happens when these accessories take the dominant role?

  • Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell (Social Media Manager) Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Museum, USA – Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow: Extreme Makeovers in Late 18th Century Hairstyles
  • Mairi MacKenzie (Research Fellow) Glasgow School of Art, UK – “You smell like a whore”: Pungent Scents, Questionable Character and the Rise of Power Perfumes in the 1980s
  • Laura Vegas (Researcher) Universidad De Valladolid, Teresa Viñes (Independent Researcher) & Leire Rubio (Illustrator), Spain – Main Jewelry Pieces in the Castilian Royal Chamber during the 15th Century
  • Annamarie Sandecki (Archivist) & Amy McHugh (Assistant Curator) Tiffany & , USA – A Broadway Belle: Archeological Revival Jewelry in 19th Century New York

Presentation of Barberino McArthur Glen Designer Outlet
Presentation of Scarperia and San Piero a Sieve
Presentation of Museo Novecento
Exclusive Visit – Museo Novecento
Reception (location to be announced)

 –Sunday, November 20th, 2015

Excursion to Mugello

On the final day of Restraint and Excess we will take a bus excursion to the Mugello region, homeland of the Medicis. Our first stop will be the Barberino McArthur Glen Designer Outlet for a contemporary look at a “globalized Italian shopping village”. We will then proceed on to the municipality of Scarperia to enjoy the medieval character of this historic Tuscan town. Here participants will be received by the town hall officials, visit the museum of cutting tools and take a tour of a knife crafting workshop. Our trip will conclude with tastes of the local food production at our farewell reception.