Click here to download the complete program of Costume Colloquium I: A tribute to Janet Arnold in PDF.
Here follows the daily program of presentations and events .
THURSDAY NOVEMBER 6 / AUDITORIUM AL DUOMO
9:00 Welcome and Opening remarks
Paolo Del Bianco (Presidente, Fondazione Romualdo Del Bianco)
Cristina Piacenti (Presidente, Associazione Amici della Galleria del Costume e Soprintendente Museo Stibbert, Firenze)
Cristina Acidini (Soprintendente Speciale per il Patrimonio Storico, Artistico e Etnoantropologico e per il Polo Museale della Città di Firenze)
Bruno Santi (Soprintendente Opificio Delle Pietre Dure, Firenze)
SESSION I Janet Arnold, dress historian, artist, fashion designer and teacher: background on her life and her work
Moderator: Grazietta Butazzi
9:20 Providing a Firm Foundation / Santina M. Levey (Textile and Dress Historian, UK)
9:40 A Closer Look at Janet Arnold’s Drawings / Linda Newington (Head of Faculty Services: Law, Arts & Social Sciences, University of Southampton Library, UK)
10:00 The Artefact as Narrator: A Curator’s View / Joanna Marshner (Senior Curator, Historic Royal Palaces, Kensington Palace, London)
10:20 Encased in Linen: A practical demonstration to celebrate the publication of Patterns of Fashion Volume 4 /Jenny Tiramani (Independent Theatre Designer and Dress Historian, London)
10:45 Discussion
11:00 Coffee break
SESSION II The study and research of costume and dress today: what is the status quo?
Moderator: Mary Westerman Bulgarella
11:30 Object Lessons: Dress History in the UK / Susan North (Curator of 17th and 18th Century Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum, London)
11:50 The Gown’s the Thing: Object-based Dress History Research in the United States / Jean Druesedow (Director, Kent State University Museum, Kent, Ohio, USA)
12:15 Fashion and Costume Research and Study: the Situation in Italy / Grazietta Butazzi (Storico del Costume e della Moda, Italia)
12:40 Discussion
12:55 Break for lunch
SESSION III Florence, historic Italian fashion centre: future prospects
Moderator: Cristina Piacenti
14:00 The Emilio Pucci Archive Foundation / Alessandra Arezzi Boza (Curatore, Fondazione Archivio Emilio Pucci, Firenze)
14:40 The Roberto Capucci Foundation: Patrimony and Prospects/ Enrico Minio (Direttore, Fondazione Roberto Capucci, Firenze)
15:00 The Textile Museum of Prato: Tradition Inspiring Creativity / Laura Fiesoli (Responsabile della Sezione Contemporanea, Fondazione Museo del Tessuto di Prato)
15:20 The Salvatore Ferragamo Museum Archive: from the Past to the Future / Stefania Ricci (Direttore, Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, Firenze)
15:40 Discussion
17:00 Salvatore Ferragamo Museum – Palazzo Spini Feroni / Visit and reception-aperitivo
FRIDAY NOVEMBER 7 / AUDITORIUM AL DUOMO
SESSION IV The study of burial clothes: historic research and conservation
Moderator: Maria Hayward
9:00 Documentation: Past, Present, Future / Rosalia Varoli-Piazza (Consigliere per la conservazione ICCROM e Storico dell’Arte, Istituto Superiore per la Conservazione ed il Restauro, Roma)
9:20 Conserving the Medici Burial Clothes with Janet Arnold / Mary Westerman Bulgarella (Independent Textile and Costume Conservator, Florence)
9:40 The Medici Project: Archaeology meets Medicine / Donatella Lippi (Professore Associato Storia della Medicina, Università di Firenze)
10:00 A ‘Modus Operandi’ for Preserving the Burial Finds of Don Filippino and Grand Duke Gian Gastone de’Medici / Susanna Conti (Direttore, Laboratorio Conservazione Tessili, Opificio delle Pietre Dure, Firenze)
10:25 Preliminary Stylistic Analysis of the Clothes from Grand-ducal Tombs / Monica Bietti (Direttore, Cappelle Medicee, Firenze)
10:45 Discussion
11:00 Coffee break
11:45 Open visit to the Medici Chapels and Medici tombs in San Lorenzo
13:00 Break for lunch
SESSION V Interpretations of historic dress: various applications of Janet Arnold’s studies and patterns
Moderator: Jenny Tiramani
14:00 Mode and Movement / Jackie Marshall-Ward (Director of Danse Royale and Hands on History, UK)
14:20 Historic Cuts and their use in Creating Costumes for Performance / Luca Costigliolo (Independent Costume Designer, Genova)
14:40 “Are you Hot in That?”: The Pleasures & Pitfalls of Professional Costumed Interpretation in the UK / Mark Wallis (Director of Professional Costume Interpretation, Past Pleasures Ltd., UK)
15:00 New Mannequins for the Darmstadt Costume Collection: Permanent Mounts Based on Pattern Drawings / Johannes Pietsch (Independent Textile and Costume Conservator, Abegg-Stiftung, Riggisberg, Switzerland)
15:20 Reconstructing the Past: A Brief Survey of the Manufacture and Use of Historic Dress at a Historic Site / Brenda Rousseau (Manager of the Costume Design Center, Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, USA)
15:40 Discussion
16:00 Viewing of Stibbert Museum presentation DVD (in English and Italian)
16:30 Transfer to Stibbert Museum
17:00 Open visit to Stibbert Museum and their temporary costume exhibition; reception-aperitivo in the Limonaia
20:00 Transfer to Florence centre
21:00 Auditorium al Duomo Concert performance of The Southern Bohemian Choir, Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic
SATURDAY NOVEMBER 8 / AUDITORIUM AL DUOMO
SESSION VI Studying cut and construction: the influence of the past on contemporary fashion
Moderator: Roberta Orsi Landini
9:00 Divine Proportions’: Geometric Principles in Thayaht’s Designs for the Maison Vionnet / Aurora Fiorentini (Professore di Storia dell’Arte, Moda ed Arti Applicate, Università di Firenze)
9:20 Looking Back, Fashion Forward: History and Modernity / Alexandra Palmer (Senior Curator Textiles & Costume, Department of World Cultures, Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada)
9:40 Scattered Remnants in the Present: Contemporary and Avant-garde Designers / Gillion Carrara (Director, the Fashion Resource Center, The School of the Art Institute of Chicago)
10:00 Revealing Deconstruction: Collecting Contemporary Fashion in an Art Museum Context / Sharon S. Takeda (Senior Curator and Department Head Costume & Textiles, Los Angeles County Museum of Art)
10:20 Discussion
10:35 Coffee break
SESSION VII Visual and archival sources: dress as a document and documents of dress
Moderator: Susan North
11:05 Dress in Paintings as a Resource for Art Historians: Some 16th and Early 17th Century British Examples / Karen Hearn (Curator of 16th and 17th Century British Art, Tate Britain, London)
11:25 The Sixteenth-Century Codpiece: Refashioning Masculinity / Carole Collier Frick (Professor of History, Southern Illinois University, USA)
11:45 Image and Written Record: Unlocking Henry VIII’s Wardrobe / Maria Hayward (Reader, Textile Conservation Centre – History Department, University of Southampton, UK)
12:05 The Medici Wardrobe: an Exceptional Resource of Historic Importance / Roberta Orsi Landini (Storica del Costume e Tessuto, Firenze)
12:25 Discussion
12:40 Brief communications
13:00 Break for lunch
SESSION VIII Theoretical and practical perspectives: methods of research and conservation
Moderator: Rosalia Varoli-Piazza
14:00 Methods of Indirect and Direct Analysis of Historic Clothes / Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols (Adjunct Professor of Costume Studies and Design, Polimoda, Florence)
14:15 A Gown of a Duchess: the Court Dress of a Madonna in Pisa / Moira Brunori (Conservatore di Tessuti e Costume, Pisa)
14:30 The Cappamagna of the Order of the Knights of St. Stephen / Simona Di Marco (Curatore, Museo Stibbert, Firenze)
14:45 The Creation of the Photographic-Digital Archive of the Medici Burial Clothes.Consignment of the Archive to the Galleria del Costume / Carlotta Del Bianco (Founder Fellow della Fondazione Romualdo Del Bianco); Consignor: Santina M. Levey (on behalf of the executors of the late Janet Arnold / per conto degli esecutori testamentari di Janet Arnold); Recipients: Cristina Acidini (Soprintendente Speciale per il Patrimonio Storico, Artistico e Etnoantropologico e per il Polo Museale della Città di Firenze) e Caterina Chiarelli (Direttore, Galleria del Costume, Firenze)
15:00 Discussion
15:45 Pitti Palace: Visits to the Galleria del Costume, the Monumental Apartments and the Tapestry Apartments
17:30 Reception-aperitivo at the Pitti Palace courtyard cafè
SUNDAY NOVEMBER 9 / AUDITORIUM AL DUOMO
9:00 Presentation of upcoming www.costume-textiles.com initiatives
9:15 Closing remarks / Susan North (Curator of 17th and 18th Century Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum) for Cristina Piacenti (Presidente dell’Associazione Amici della Galleria del Costume e Soprintendente del Museo Stibbert); Paolo Del Bianco (Presidente della Fondazione Romualdo Del Bianco)
9:35 Welcome and introduction to Palazzo Vecchio / Eugenio Giani (Assessore della Cultura, Comune di Firenze)
10:00 Coffee break
11:00 Palazzo Vecchio: Guided visits to the Monumental Quarters and Apartment of Eleonora di Toledo; audience with Duchess Eleonora di Toledo (enactment actor in historic dress; viewing of costume reproductions
14:00 Departure of Optional tour to Pisa (Pre-registered participants only)
